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Organic Allotments - How to start one
RULES | LAYOUT
and DESIGN | MAINTENANCE |
Coton Fields Allotments
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RULES:
Rule number 1 - DO NOT USE WEEDKILLERS
Rule number 2 - DO NOT BURN OR DUMP any vegetation/turf/weed roots.
There is no point in removing valuable nutrients.
Either - 1/. Leave under the covering (see below)
or 2/. Compost (if making a pile, it is important not to let the sun and
wind dry it out - you're making compost, not hay !) A few roots of the
perennials will survive, but most won't.
Rule number 3 - remove ALL perennial weeds.
This can be done by digging (carefully forking out the
roots – you will find that this has to be done more than once).
Many people prefer to use the technique of covering the land with
light-excluding material such as carpets to kill/weaken the weeds. I
prefer big sheets of cardboard which avoids disposal problems. The
cardboard rots down and feeds the soil.
Advantage - when uncovered, the soil structure is excellent since any
the actual green matter that was covered will have been incorporated
into the soil .
Disadvantage - takes a lot of time - 1 year means 'One growing season
plus winter', and not 'One winter' – and 1 year will only weaken and
not kill (at best severely weaken) the well established plants.
Rather than leaving this covered area totally plant free (any sign of
weed growth must be removed; those weeds will not die if green leaves
are allowed to send food to their roots), it is a good idea to plant
through holes made in the covering. But beware of SLUGS, and there will
be plenty - you have just created ideal conditions for them.
DO NOT USE SLUG PELLETS.
Ensure -
1/. The plants that are planted are as large and as healthy as possible
– and therefore best able to withstand 'slug attack'.
2/. You have spare plants.
You should not be concerned about providing any 'plant food' for the first season, since the rotting vegetation will provide sufficient nutrients.
An excellent compromise is to actually remove perennial weeds by digging for only a few yards (maybe 6 or 7). I recommend that the deep/double digging is left until this area has gone for a whole season without perennial weeds and convertion to the Bed System takes place at the same time.
Double digging is very heavy work, and not having to dig the paths is a saving worth making.
The next 10 to 30 yds should be covered in order to kill the weeds, and your weed free* vegetable growing area is expanded when you have time - but not before you've had a whole growing seasons experience.
* free of weeds growth from roots, not seeds.
Rule number 4 - thorough Deep/Double Digging
- to break-up the inevitable compressed layer that will have
been created below the depth that the previous gardener dug to.
Such a compressed layer greatly restricts root growth and the
subsequent water extracting capacity of the plant, and the result is
that the potential crops are much smaller. Many experienced gardeners
remain unaware of the benefits of careful deep digging until they see
the results ('careful' means avoiding inverting the top and sub soils,
yet ensuring a slight mixing of the two).
Although 'soil food' is best restricted to the very top/surface of the
soil, when Double Digging, I like to add manure (NOT Garden Compost -
it's far too valuable) to the lower layer, in order to artificially
increase the depth of soil.
The double (or 'trench') digging of a 4ft wide bed is easier than you
might think. The important thing to remember is to work off a 3-4 ft
board between two garden lines – that will have been put down to mark
the edges of the bed.
Rule number 5 Do not clear any more land than you will have time to maintain.
The biggest and commonest mistake that virtually everyone (including
the experienced) make is to initially clear too much land. There is a
very real danger that you will spend so much time looking after the
allotment that you will not have time for -
a/. Life.
b/. Growing your food.
Prior to the first growing season, only an area of a size that you will be able to keep weed free during the growing season (no more than 10-30 yds). should be prepared (ie made weed free) for the coming vegetable crops.
Rule number 6 TIME is needed for the 'natural balance' to be achieved
You must realise that in the first year that you try gardening
without using the 'crutch' of pesticides, you will most probably get
problems with pests. This is because the natural population of Predators
and Parasites will have been greatly reduced by the sprays. Provided
that you don't use any pesticides – and allow a population of
Predators and/or Parasites to build up (it may be that your allotment is
not sufficiently close to a population of 'goodies' and so you have to
introduce some), then this pest population should remain at a level that
can and will be dealt with by resident 'goodies'.
LAYOUT and DESIGN of an Organic Allotment
USE THE BED SYSTEM
If you use the 'Bed System' – then there's no time of the year when
you are not able to walk into the centre of your plot.
Despite what many people think, the permanent paths do NOT take up
more space, and since the overall yield can be so much greater, then a
smaller area is required. The biggest problem likely to be encountered
will most likely to be caused by incorrect use of the system (for
example – not understanding the principles and making the beds too
wide ).
Before turning your allotment over to a bed system, it must be realised that the removal of perennial weeds from an area of beds would mean a lot of unnecessarily complicated work, and so I strongly advise you NOT to make beds until all of the perennial weeds have been removed, and there has been a seasons growth to prove it.
The Beds should be about 1metre to 4ft wide (a width that means that all the soil surface can be reached for any weeding etc. without standing on the beds), and alternate with Permanent paths about 1ft 9ins wide (adopt a width to suit yourself – width of wheelbarrow supports ?).
This allows for minimum soil damage by
1/. - utilizing minimum soil cultivation techniques.
2/. - NEVER standing on the bed.
When beds are created in an area of grassland, it is tempting to
simply mark out and cultivate the 4ft beds, leaving the existing grass
as the paths between. DON’T DO THIS. The grassland of
most Allotment sites usually contains a lot/some creeping grasses that
will move into your cultivated plots at a frightening pace and make a
lot of work.and seriously reduce crop growth and yields.
If it is decided to have the main path as grass (which will require
regular cutting), then the wisest course would be to remove the old
grass and resow with a lawn mix.
Such beds are often called ‘Raised Beds’ and it is often recommended that they should be 6 or more inches (15+ centimeters) above the height of the paths. I don’t agree with this advice since I have observed that such beds have tend to suffer from a lack of water ie the plants wilt more frequently.
If it is decided to use boarding for supporting the beds, then the ground MUST be totally free of perennial weeds – since the boards will provide cover and protection for the roots and the complete removal of the plants becomes very difficult. Not only do boards require purchasing and the labour of being put in place (both initially and then replaced as they rot) ; as well as providing shelter to couch roots, they also harbour slugs and snails.
To construct the beds, first mark out the ends of the alternating
beds and paths between one side of the allotment and the path. Next
remove the top two inches of soil from of the 'path', putting it onto
the 'bed'. Now rake the paths level and rake the beds level. ( a tip -
make use of the back of the rake.)
PROVISION OF COMPOSTING SITES
You will most probably be making 2 different types, and may want 2 sites.
- a site for shorter term HOT compost bays – consisting of 3,
2½ft x 2½ft bays used in a 3 year rotation.
One bay being filled with 1 years worth of compost material.
One bay full of last years compost, composting for 1 year.
One bay of mature compost,being used.
It is important to always keep the compost in these bays covered.
- a site for a long-term compost heap - for the woodier materials.
Personal Note - I also have 2 'wormerys' in steel oil-drums (anti-Rats)
for kitchen waste.
PROVISION of SITE for MANURE (and LEAVES?)
It is not possible to have a successful organic allotment without an
area reserved for the rotting down of a heap of manure. Many people like
to have a pile of rotting leaves to supply leaf mould.
FLOWERS AND POND. The encouragement of as much wildlife as possible.
It is very important to have as many flowers that are attractive to insects as possible. Many perennial garden flowers are useful and Herbs are particularly good.
Personal Note - My own allotment is a mixture a 'wildlife garden'
and a 'vegetable garden'
MAINTENANCE of an Organic Allotment
Rule number 1 - DO NOT USE SOLUBLE FERTILIZERS
Soluble fertilizers dissolve into the soil water are taken up by plant
(whether needed or not ) without benefiting the soil organisms.
Rule number 2 - FEED THE SOIL AND LET THE SOIL FEED THE PLANT
The addition of Bulky Organic Matter (F.Y.M.[Farm Yard Manure] and/or
Garden Compost) to the soil contributes greatly to its structure and
other positive qualities and in so doing, greatly enhances the growth
potential of the soil. It is the breakdown (decay) of this Organic
Matter by the soil organisms that provides the minerals used by the
plants for growth.
Whenever F.Y.M. is used, it should not be used fresh, but should be
allowed to stand for a year. It’s very important that it's covered
with something that lets in neither light or water - prevents the
leaching of Nutrients by rain
- prevents the growth of weeds
- prevents weed seeds from blowing in and contaminating the manure.
ADDING FRESH (UNROTTED) MANURE DAMAGES THE SOIL .
Composting for a year allows micro-organisms to not only thoroughly
breakdown and mix the straw, animal dung and urine; but also breaks down
95% or more of any unpleasant residues from chemicals that the farmer
may have used (antibiotics etc.). This doesn't mean that nasty/toxic
elements ( Cl,Na,Cu etc.) are removed.
For this reason, try to use manure from an Organic Farm (very
difficult to obtain), and don't use manure from an intensive pig unit
(toxic elements are used as a food additive).
It is highly unlikely that there is ever 'too much straw' in in a
delivery of manure. The straw has been used by the farmer as bedding for
the cattle and since it costs money, no matter how big-hearted the
farmer is, it is highly doubtful that he would have put down too much.
This straw will have soaked up a lot of the cattles urine and having an
uncovered manure heap results in a top layer of unrotted straw from
which the nutrients have been leached by the rain.
Make and use as much Compost as possible.
Compost is best used -
as a top-dressing applied in Spring and Early & Late Summer (on the
Legumes
the Brassicas and A.Y.R. in the Greenhouse).
as a component of the potting compost (I use 33% compost, 33%
sandy-loam,
33% leaf-mould and a little lime)
The timing of the spreading of your rotted Manure or Compost is
important.
Putting the manure/compost onto the surface of the plot in the autumn
means that the winter rains will leach out a lot of the nutrients and
they will be wasted since plant growth is minimal. Many people apply
their manure/compost in the autumn because they see farmers doing this.
What is not seen is that the manure is either ploughed under and a
winter growing crop is then sown, or it is applied to a growing crop –
ie grassland.
Make use of Leguminous Green Manures as much as possible.
A green manure is a crop that is grown in order to be incorporated
into the soil, and in addition the roots of members of the Legume family
of plants add Nitrogen to the soil (among leguminous green manures are
Alfalfa, Clovers, Beans, Lupins, Trefoils and Tares).
Rotation.
When planting use the standard 4 year rotation
(Legumes-Brassicas-Onions- Potatoes).
I also combine what little soil cultivation is necessary into the 4
year rotation . Manure is covered with just a couple inches of soil on
the potato beds just before planting. When the potato crop is dug up,
the soil is deeply dug at the same time, - once every 4years. This is
followed by the Legumes (Peas and Beans) for which the bed is hoed if
necessary. The legume crop is followed by the Brassicas. Again, the only
soil cultivation is hoeing of the brassica beds, and lots of Lime is
lightly raked in and lots of my coarsest compost is put on the bed. The
plants are planted through this, and given another top-dressing of
compost 4-6 weeks later.
Plant big, healthy plants.
More able to withstand attack from Pests & Diseases.
Horticultural 'correctness'.
Although it sometimes seems as if Organic Gardening is all about doing
things differently just for the sake of doing things differently,
hopefully by now you will have realised that that is not the case.
Organic Gardeners recognise that a great many (but not all) standard
Horticultural practices (in particular the older ones -Victorian and
Edwardian) are done for very good reasons that an Organic Gardener would
approve of.
ie Pruning. On allotment sites I see some awful pruning; it's often as
if the gardeners concerned are trying their best to promote disease.
The same is true about Garden and Greenhouse Hygiene – most of the
so called 'compost' heaps' are simply 'organic rubbish heaps' (if you
ignore the glass, plastic and wire) that are excellent plant disease
breeding grounds.
Notes specific to Coton Fields Allotments.
Soil Type
The soil in most of Coton Fields Allotments is light and very free draining (particularly towards Corporation Street) and this has both advantages and disadvantages. It means that the soil is very easily worked and perennial weeds are easily dug out. The free drainage means that the soil can be worked within hours of heavy rain but plants suffer as soon as there's a hint of drought – so a deeply worked soil that is 'high in Organic Matter'( i.e. deeply dug and recieves lots of manure and/or compost) is especially important.
Soil Compaction
Being a very old allotment site, the sub-soil on the plots is very often badly compacted, and the ideal is to give an initial double digging, a far less daunting task if the Bed System is being used.
Horsetail
(Also occasionally called ‘Hosepipe’ and mistakenly ‘Marestail’) This is an extremely resilient weed that is very common over most of the plot. The only treatment that really works is to constantly remove it as soon as it is seen (this does not mean 'next time I' m here'). This method relies on the deep and widespread root system being exhausted – which it does, but not if any top growth is left to convert sunlight into foods for the roots. Burning the top-growth off (with fire or chemicals) simply removes the competing weeds that had been stopping the horsetail from being rampant. Horsetail is NOT a very good competitor – so ensuring that plants are always growing, will keep any horsetail down.
The Commonest Pests and Diseases
There are three main soil born pest and diseases, all 3 of which are
common in these allotments.
It is essential to rotate your crops whether or not
there is any sign of these diseases.
Brassica Clubroot - lime the bed. The 'onion year' is your 'lime'
year.
- use lots of compost.
- minimum cultivation.
- plant out large healthy plants, raised in pots.
Potato Cyst Eelworm - use F.Y.M.
Onion White Rot - The only thing I've managed so far is to ensure
that the
crop (-Onions, Shallots, Garlic) is lifted and put to dry and
ripen on a bench in the greenhouse: as soon as there are
serious signs of the disease.
The 'inevitiable' Potato Blight
In these allotments, Potato Blight strikes every year. It would seem that the main precautions that can be taken are
- healthy soil to ensure good quality early growth
- do not grow late maturing varieties ('late maincrop')
- grow varieties that have some degree of resistance to Blight.
- when (not 'if') you get blight, then
- until the situation is hopeless, then it actually is worth while to
individually cut off the diseased leaflets, because the potato tubers
may well have only just started bulking-up.
- as soon as that is too much work, cut off the tops a few centimetres
above the ground in order to prevent the Blight spores from being washed
into the soil where they could infect the potato tubers. I compost these
tops. Some people prefer to burn them.
- leave 10 days between the removal of the tops and the digging up of
the potatoes. This is allowing the skin to harden sufficiently to form a
barrier preventing penetration by the disease spores.
- any Blighted tubers should be disposed of carefully, since in the U.K.
it is in the tubers that the disease gets through the winter. As yet, no
over wintering spores have been found in the U.K., meaning that the
disease has to have living plant matter on which to survive – and
since tubers are alive, a diseased tuber will provide diseased growth
the following year with which to start next years epidemic.
